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The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu
Our destination: Machu Picchu (yes, it did look like this!)
We have to confess that at one point in our planning, we had
actually decided that the Inca Trail (or Camino Inca)would take
up too much time, that the 3-day hike starting at km88 near Cuzco and
wending its way up and over majestic Andean peaks, down into the more
tropical terrain of the Amazon basin, past Inca ruins inaccessible
except on foot and culminating at Machu Picchu, the most famous ruins
in all of the Americas, might not be worth the time, hassle and
energy.
Pfffbt!!!! Were we nuts?
Map of the Inca Trail
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OK, we did of course have a first-hand account from someone who
said she thought she was going to die, and we had also read reports of
robberies and accidents on the trail. And it wasn't exactly a cakewalk
(well, not for some of us anyway): although the total length of the
trail is only about 50 miles, the high elevation, especially on day 2
(when we went from 2600m to 4000m and back down to 3600m), made it
quite demanding.
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Llactapata, the first ruins along the trail, possibly a
storage center for crops produced in the valley and on the hillsides.
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All in all, though, our fears were unfounded. We lucked out with an
excellent tour guide, Kenny, who not only seemed to have read
everything ever written about Machu Picchu (and Hiram Bingham!) but
also told us great stories about tiny devils appearing in the night
and jungle runways suddenly appearing between parting trees. We were
in an amiable group of 15 (fortunately only two Americans, Tien and
Nancy!) and met other pleasant fellow Inca Trailers on the way as
well.
We also think we might have set a record for amount of laughing on
the Inca Trail, especially on the second day (well, at least Nancy and
Tien), when, we like to think, our frequent outburts helped us make it
to the top of Warmiwanusca (see right), the highest point on the trail
at 4200m, or maybe 4000m -- conflicting reports! In the background is
a long uphill stretch, and at some point down there we stopped for an
orange break that stretched into a half-hour laughing fit. Our peals
of laughter echoed through the valley, causing some helpful fellow
trekkers to caution us against the dangers of laughing too much (and
thereby squandering the precious energy we'd need to get to the top);
our attempts to contain ourselves only backfired. Just as we were
wondering whether indeed laughing would cause us particular
difficulties at altitude, a Very Helpful Man passed by and, barely
pausing, informed us that the decreased oxygen we were getting at that
altitude was producing an effect similar to that of alcohol, which may
hamper hemoglobin's ability to take up oxygen. In other words, he
said, we were drunk on altitude! By the time we recovered from the new
laughing fit inspired by this, he was gone, so it wasn't until later
that we had a chance to break it to him that we actually laugh this
much even at sea level. He was eventually dubbed the M&M guy (in
dark blue to the left of the picture), since when we caught up to him
he tempted us up the steep trail with the promise of M&Ms.
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"Vamos, muchachitos!" Our guide Kenny near Runkuraqay.
The path snaking down the hill was what we came down
on day 2, after reaching the peak at Warmiwanusca; we camped
near the small white hut in the valley in a place called Pacaymayu.
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The third day had it all: four sets of ruins, two passes that rewarded
us with amazing views for the effort of getting there, a dramatic
ecological swing from the drier and more barren puna to the
thick vegetation and constant background hum of jungle life. (We also
had as destination a more civilized campsite at Winaywayna to look
forward to: bathrooms and showers!)
Nancy, Tien and Rachel at Runkuraqay (Quecha for "round house"),
probably a look-out post.
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Kevin and Nancy near Runkuraqay. Notice the snow-covered Andean peaks
in the distance.
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Tien and Nancy and the end of a path that seemed to lead nowhere
-- steep cliff beyond!
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Our final day began even earlier than the previous several had:
around 4 a.m. we set off with flashlights in hand (or on head, for
some) through the thick fog to make it to Inti Punku (the Sun
Gate) in time for what we hoped would be a spectacular sunrise and
first glimpse of our ultimate goal. We arrived at the gate to find
instead a spectacular view of thick grey fog and a number of rather
disappointed looking hikers! We waited hopefully for some time, but
after a few false alarms (a slightly lighter grey patch of sky caused
much excitement) we gave up and started down the
path toward our goal. The tension mounted as we descended; a slight
breeze tantalized us with glimpses of splendors natural and
man-made perpetually receding behind the grey curtain. (One defiant
peak seemed to proclaim, "I'm a mountain, a mountain!" as it poked
through the mist; more laughing fits.) Fortunately, before long the
sun burned away most of the mist, unleashing a clear blue sky for our
sunbathing pleasure and a vast archaelogical treasure worthy of its
reputation.
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Our first glimpse of Machu Picchu finally emerging
from the mist.
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The whole group with our local Machu Picchu guide, Francisco.
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Kenny was not allowed to show us around Machu Picchu, for reasons he
was too embarassed to explain. Fortunately, our local guide Francisco
(como Francisco Pizarro!) provided much melodramatic entertainment:
"Open your eyes WIDE!" he would exhort us, to the amazing skills of
the Inca masons. Some vegetation around the site, he told us, was
highly recommended "if you want to FLY HIGH!" He made the most amazing
hooting sounds when trying to demonstrate some acoustic effect in one
chamber (somewhat less impressive because everyone could hear it),
and, in insisting that we take advantage of his recommended photo ops,
demanded sternly, "Give me your camera!"
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Nancy and Tien after complying with Francisco's command.
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Our train back from Aguas Calientes.
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We found out while at the site that the local train back to Cuzco had
been canceled because a landslide had closed off a section of the
tracks. Fortunately, we had tickets for the express train, which meant
we were able to get to Ollyantaytambo, and Kenny, which meant we were
able to get back by bus to Cuzco. Too exhausted for a night on the town, we
collapsed in preparation for another early morning, this time to catch
our flight to Puerto Maldonado.
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Page created by Kevin Murphy and Nancy Chang (with
travel partners Rachel Chalmers and Tien-Shun Lee in spirit!).
All images © 1998. All rights reserved. Please ask permission before
copying.
Last update July 6, 1998.
Comments welcome!