(Click on an image for the full version!)

The Plaza de Armas by day.

CUZCO

The Plaza de Armas by night.

Our trip began with a very loud reunion between Tien and Nancy at the Lima airport, followed by the rapid consumption of the American breakfast booty (bagels and cereal) we had brought from the States. We had strategically decided to leave most of the trip planning until our arrival, so the rest of the day was spent mostly at the very helpful South American Explorer's Club with some sightseeing thrown in at the end. Besides the advertisements that were cut into the grass along the sides of some highways (like Hush Puppies!), Lima seemed not unlike many other big cities, and, at least in the few areas we saw, was actually much cleaner and safer than we had expected. A local friend of Tien's took us for a nighttime drive along La Marina, after which we enjoyed an excellent seafood Spanish immersion meal (we tried ceviche -- a raw fish dish with the special flavor imparted only by true Peruvian lemons!) despite ample warnings not to, and we felt none the worse for wear).

Shaped like a puma? hmm...

The real travel, however, began the next day, when we flew with Rachel to Cuzco, the ancient Inca capital. (Alternate spellings include Qosqo, Cusco and Cosco -- it's pronounced much like our local bulk-merchandise warehouse Costco, though it's probably (slightly) more fun to visit.) As recommended, after our first sampling of mate de coca (a tea made using the coca leaf, though it's less potent than its more famous brethren) we spent the first morning in bed, adapting to the elevation (3200m)! (It worked -- none of us had any symptoms of soroche, or altitude sickness, at least not that day!)

The owner of the Hostal Choquechaca with her daughter.

We stayed at the Hostal Choquechaca, though it wasn't until Tien joined us the next day that we realized how fun it was to say it: "Chock-eh-chack-aaaahhh!" Clean, safe and very cheap -- we recommend it, providing you don't mind not having much hot water (what can you expect when it costs only about $3/night?).

Hau, Rob, Nancy, Kevin and Rachel sporting alpaca goods. (Note the cute llama blanket!)

Over the next three days, we bought enough alpaca sweaters to see us through the harshest California winter while resisting the constant entreaties of the local shoeshine boys (at least at first). We learned to limit our time in the Plaza de Armas (too many persistent hawkers) and treat claims of "baby alpaca! baby alpaca!" with some skepticism (what next, we wondered, fetal alpaca?).

All dressed up in traditional attire.

But while lounging around there we also chanced upon a few parades. One seemed to be some kind of costume parade for little kids, and the other was very interestingly a parade in honor of women's health.

"La salud de mujeres es un derecho humano" - Women's health is a human right

Besides the standard tourist circuit of the Incan and colonial sites, including the cathedral and Sacsayhuaman, we explored the paysage surrounding Cuzco on horseback and nourished ourselves with Pisco sours and some great Asian food (Indonesian, Pakistani, Chinese, etc.; we were baffled but not complaining at the high quality and interesting melange of choices at Al Grano, highly recommended!) -- all in preparation for the Inca trail ahead...

This was one of the most beautiful cathedrals we had ever seen. It was filled with gold, but not too gaudy. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed inside.

Sacsayhuaman, which none of us had any problems pronouncing once our guide gave us the useful mnemonic "sexy woman".

The Fearsome Four ride into town.

One of the many local shoeshine boys plying for trade in the plaza. Here you can see an example of before (left) and after (right)... Pretty impressive, but make sure you settle on a price before he starts!

Shadowplay at Sacsayhuaman.

Two views of Cuzco's amazing alpine setting from the air -- love those window seats!

Back to main Peru page

Embark on the Inca Trail!